Today is going to be a pretty short post. I just wanted to bring up a couple points about the recent surge in "Mobile Mechanics" out there during these hard economic times.
First of all I need to make something clear. I don't believe that all mobile mechanics are bad, in fact I know of some that are great technicians, take pride in their work, and do a great job. With that being said, you also have to be very careful about who is under the hood of your vehicle.
I had a gal come into my shop last week and ask what I would charge to do front brakes on her Subaru Outback (this is a pretty simple task for any legit technicians, even at the entry level). I told her I have a special running this month for $99.00 which includes resurfacing her rotors and replacing the brake pads. If you read my previous post about doing brakes the correct way than you already know that I am very proper about even the most simple jobs like brakes. She told me she did not have enough money for the job and I can completely understand that. The next day she was browsing on Craigslist and found a mobile mechanic that would do the job for $30 less than my price, so she called him and scheduled a time for him to come out and replace the brake pads on her car.
She called me 2 days later and explained that she had a mobile mechanic do the brakes on her car and it was now making a very loud grinding noise. She brought the car in to my shop to have it rechecked as she could not get a hold of the mobile mechanic. What I found was pretty disturbing...
First of all the rotors were not refinished (which will lessen the life of the brake job). None of the moving parts were cleaned and lubed. I see this pretty often so I was not too surprised. What did surprise me though was the fact that the mobile mechanic left a brake caliper bolt out on the brake caliper mounting bracket which was causing the caliper to lodge itself up against the inside of the right front wheel. This could have caused a major accident and I'm very glad it didn't. The caliper was ruined and had to be replaced. The brake pads were ruined and had to be replaced. I was able to refinish the rotors and re-do the whole brake job properly. By the time we fixed everything properly it ended up costing the customer twice as much as I originally had quoted the job + the $70 she paid the mobile mechanic.
The point that I want to make here is: not all mobile mechanics do these kinds of repairs, but there are people out there that do not know what they are doing. Just because someone tells you they have been fixing their cars their entire life does not mean they have the proper training and credentials to be fixing your vehicle the right way. A mobile mechanic may be a great option for you but please check them out thoroughly first. Do they carry ASE Certification cards with them. Do they have legit refrences you can call to check? Do they have a proper business license and are they checking to make sure that the land they will be working on your vehicle is safe for the job. Are they properly disposing of harmful chemicals?
These are just some things to think about while deciding how to go about your next vehicle repair or service.
Feel free to call me 208.664.6400 for any questions or advice about your vehicle. My name is Cory and I'm the owner of Save More Automotive in Coeur d'Alene, ID. We can tackle any of your vehicle repairs and services with only the best ASE Certified technicians available. Brakes, tune ups, check engine light diagnosis, transmission repair, engine repair, timing belts, oil changes, and everything inbetween. We are the experts when it comes to saving your car or truck. You can also find us online at http://www.cdasavemore.com/ where you can fill out a free online quote form.
Save More Automotive
1425 E Sherman Ave
Coeur d'Alene, ID 83814
208.664.6400
http://www.cdasavemore.com/
cory@cdasavemore.com
Saturday, April 7, 2012
Monday, January 2, 2012
The Importance of The Oil Change & Especially Where It's Done
Changing the oil in your car or truck is one of the most important things you should be doing to maintain your vehicle. Most manufacturers recommend changing your oil every 3,000 miles, but a few have different intervals such as 5,000 miles and I've even seen a couple European vehicles that recommend it every 7,000 miles. Those vehicles usually use a very expensive synthetic oil. Check your vehicle owner's manual to know for sure how often your oil should be changed.
The obvious reason for changing your oil is to protect your engine's internal parts that require clean lubrication from heat and friction damage. Many people overlook the second reason to have your oil changed every 3,000 miles or 3-4 months, and the second reason is to have a qualified technician look over your vehicle's vital parts. Bringing your car in for regular oil changes gives your mechanic a chance to test drive and generally inspect your car. If you take your car to one of those quicklube places where they shove you in, drop the oil, sell you as many un-needed "fast services" as they can, fill your car back up with the wrong oil and shove you out is a complete waste of money and your missing out on the 50% of the importance of an oil change.
At my shop I perform a full preventative maintenance inspection on every vehicle that comes in for an oil change. I rotate the tires if needed (at no extra cost) and check things like the safety of your brakes and steering/suspension parts, battery terminals and battery condition, belts, hoses, and antifreeze protection level just to name a few. Tow trucks tow thousands of vehicles of every year for corroded battery terminals or bad batteries, split hoses, and broken belts; all things that could have been prevented if a qualified technician would have warned the vehicle's owner. People also spend thousands of dollars on brake rotors and drums every year that would not have been needed if the owner was informed that they needed brake before they started grinding.
The quick lube places simply rush through their oil changes too fast and are too inexperienced to properly look your vehicle over and warn you of real problems that may arise. They check the air filter and vehicle fluids because that is all they know how to repair, and changing those items quickly for you is extremely profitable for them. They do a good job of showing you the "dirty/bad" fluid that is in our car and the harm it is doing and so on. They have a nice little check list of things that are profitable for the quick lube shop to replace, but not necessarliy what should be checked during a preventative maintenance check.
Think about what you gain by going to the quick lube shop for your oil change... You save about 20 minutes or so right? At my shop a good oil change with a full preventative maintenance inspection takes about 30-45 minutes. A quick lube takes about 15 minutes to get your oil changed + what ever they "upsell" you while your there. My normal oil change price is $29.95 which is about the same as the quick lube places but the value is incredibly different. So, you might save 15 or 20 minutes by going to a quick lube shop for your oil change, but that could cost you several hours + a tow bill and costly repair that could have easily been prevented. There is a huge difference between a "good price" and a "great value" and not all "mechanics" or so called "mechanics" are created equal. Remember that.
My goal at my shop is for my customers to never have to tow their vehicles in: for one, I do everything I can to keep them happy and an unexpected break down has never made anyone happy; and for two, I don't like having to push cars to get them into my shop :)
So my advice to you is to find a mechanic that you completely trust. Someone that believes in real customer service and isn't going to just try and sell you repairs that you don't need, and take your car to them every 3-4 months for a preventative maintenance inspection. I guarantee it will save you time and money in the long run.
Cory Howard - Owner
Save More Automotive
1425 E Sherman Ave
Coeur d'Alene, ID 83814
(208) 664-6400
http://www.cdasavemore.com/
The obvious reason for changing your oil is to protect your engine's internal parts that require clean lubrication from heat and friction damage. Many people overlook the second reason to have your oil changed every 3,000 miles or 3-4 months, and the second reason is to have a qualified technician look over your vehicle's vital parts. Bringing your car in for regular oil changes gives your mechanic a chance to test drive and generally inspect your car. If you take your car to one of those quicklube places where they shove you in, drop the oil, sell you as many un-needed "fast services" as they can, fill your car back up with the wrong oil and shove you out is a complete waste of money and your missing out on the 50% of the importance of an oil change.
At my shop I perform a full preventative maintenance inspection on every vehicle that comes in for an oil change. I rotate the tires if needed (at no extra cost) and check things like the safety of your brakes and steering/suspension parts, battery terminals and battery condition, belts, hoses, and antifreeze protection level just to name a few. Tow trucks tow thousands of vehicles of every year for corroded battery terminals or bad batteries, split hoses, and broken belts; all things that could have been prevented if a qualified technician would have warned the vehicle's owner. People also spend thousands of dollars on brake rotors and drums every year that would not have been needed if the owner was informed that they needed brake before they started grinding.
The quick lube places simply rush through their oil changes too fast and are too inexperienced to properly look your vehicle over and warn you of real problems that may arise. They check the air filter and vehicle fluids because that is all they know how to repair, and changing those items quickly for you is extremely profitable for them. They do a good job of showing you the "dirty/bad" fluid that is in our car and the harm it is doing and so on. They have a nice little check list of things that are profitable for the quick lube shop to replace, but not necessarliy what should be checked during a preventative maintenance check.
Think about what you gain by going to the quick lube shop for your oil change... You save about 20 minutes or so right? At my shop a good oil change with a full preventative maintenance inspection takes about 30-45 minutes. A quick lube takes about 15 minutes to get your oil changed + what ever they "upsell" you while your there. My normal oil change price is $29.95 which is about the same as the quick lube places but the value is incredibly different. So, you might save 15 or 20 minutes by going to a quick lube shop for your oil change, but that could cost you several hours + a tow bill and costly repair that could have easily been prevented. There is a huge difference between a "good price" and a "great value" and not all "mechanics" or so called "mechanics" are created equal. Remember that.
My goal at my shop is for my customers to never have to tow their vehicles in: for one, I do everything I can to keep them happy and an unexpected break down has never made anyone happy; and for two, I don't like having to push cars to get them into my shop :)
So my advice to you is to find a mechanic that you completely trust. Someone that believes in real customer service and isn't going to just try and sell you repairs that you don't need, and take your car to them every 3-4 months for a preventative maintenance inspection. I guarantee it will save you time and money in the long run.
Cory Howard - Owner
Save More Automotive
1425 E Sherman Ave
Coeur d'Alene, ID 83814
(208) 664-6400
http://www.cdasavemore.com/
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Brakes: Done The Right Way!
My name is Cory Howard and I am the co-owner of Save More Automotive in Spokane, WA. Save More Automotive has been an auto repair shop in Spokane for over 20 years. Today I thought I would touch on a very important, probably the single most important system on your vehicle. The brake system. First of all you should have your brakes checked every time you bring your car to the shop to have it serviced. All the forward motion in the world is no good on a car if you can't bring that forward motion to a stop. I see it day in and day out, people will keep driving their vehicles to the point that they are scary and dangerous because they neglect to do the routine maintenance that should be performed like replacing your brake pads and rotors and in some cases calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder etc.
Here is a list of things to be checked in the braking system:
1. Check for any brake fluid leaks. This is important because a leak can mean a potential blow out which would likely sink your brake pedal to the floor and cause your vehicle not to stop. Modern system are what we call hydraulic which means the use the brake fluid to apply pressure to each wheel in order to stop the car. If the system can't build pressure the brakes can't do their job.
2. How does the pedal feel? A sinking brake pedal can be a sign of a leak either externally or internally in your master cylinder. Is the pedal extremely hard to push down? Most likely your brake booster is not working properly.
3. Pad/shoe thickness. You never want to let your brakes get to the point to where they are metal to metal. This means the pad material is completely worn through and you are using the pads back plate to squeeze your rotor or drum. That grinding sound you are hearing is metal on metal. You are going to need new pads and most likely new rotors or drums.
4. Do the brake calipers move freely? Alot of time if the slides on the caliper were not cleaned and lubed correctly you will have a caliper hanging up on one or both sides and will cause unwanted stopping at that wheel. This will cause uneven brake wear. This can also be cause by a bad caliper which would need to be replaced at this point.
If you check those things on a regular basis it can save you a lot of money by catching problems early before more parts are damaged. Sometimes we have to replace rotors that could have otherwise been resurfaced if the brakes hadn't gone metal to metal and ruined them.
Speaking of turning rotors! I've been asked several times. "Well can't my neighbor Bob just replace the pads? Why do the rotors need to be resurfaced?"
The reason you always want to resurface or replace your rotors when replacing pads is so you don't end up with excessive runout/warpage. Warpage will cause a brake pedal pulsation and in serious cases bad steering wheel vibration while braking. Resurfacing the rotors brings them back to a perfectly smooth and straight surface. If you just slap pads on them over time they will get worse and worse until they are no good.
Minimum Thinkness Explained: Everytime we do a brake job we measure the rotors thickness. Each car has a certain limit on how thin the rotors can be. When it's time to resurface them they need to stay above their minimum thickness specs otherwise they will over heat, warp, and in some severe cases even crack and brake. Once the rotors have been worn down past minimum thickness they need to be replaced to avoid brake failure.
Lubrication. Brake calipers have moving parts called slides. I often see brake jobs done incorrectly in the matter that none of the moving parts were lubed while putting new pads on. Every time you replace your brakes all moving service should be cleaned thoroughly and lubed with sil-glide or a comparable brake system lubrication grease. This keeps parts from rusting, pitting and sticking so your brake work properly. I also like to use disc brake quiet on all my pads. It comes in a spray paint style can. Usually red. Coat the entire back of the pads with it to keep your brakes from making that annoying squeal.
The different kinds of pads and their prices: Have you ever had a shop tell you that you have the option of the good pads or the cheap ones? Usually the good ones cost about twice as much and they are made from a ceramic materail. The ceramic pads last about twice to three times as long and I always recommend using ceramics. It will save you money in the long run. Your other option is usually a semi-metallic pad. They work just fine but like I said before they won't last as long and a lot of times are more prone to squeal in cold weather or when they are cold. Never used riveted pads! They may look just as thick as the semi-metallic and ceramics but the rivets that hold them together take up about half of the pad depth. When they wear out they usually cause major damage to rotors and ruin them. It's worth it to spend the extra few bucks and atleast get the semi-metallics.
How can I tell when it's time to replace my brake pads? Most brake pads have a wear indicator built onto them. This will cause a constant squealing sound to come from the worn out pad before they start grinding metal to metal. In my opinion, if you ever hear any sounds coming from your brakes, get them checked out. We do free brake inspections and so do many other shops. It's worth it to have the peace of mind that you're not going to have brake failure and cause an accident. Find a mechanic you trust and always bring you car to them to have the oil changed every 3000 miles so they can get a good look at your vehicle and let you know about any concerns they have.
If you have any questions about brake feel free to give me a call anytime at Save More Automotive. My name is Cory and our number is (509) 482-7283. Thanks for reading!
http://www.savemoreautomotive.com/
Here is a list of things to be checked in the braking system:
1. Check for any brake fluid leaks. This is important because a leak can mean a potential blow out which would likely sink your brake pedal to the floor and cause your vehicle not to stop. Modern system are what we call hydraulic which means the use the brake fluid to apply pressure to each wheel in order to stop the car. If the system can't build pressure the brakes can't do their job.
2. How does the pedal feel? A sinking brake pedal can be a sign of a leak either externally or internally in your master cylinder. Is the pedal extremely hard to push down? Most likely your brake booster is not working properly.
3. Pad/shoe thickness. You never want to let your brakes get to the point to where they are metal to metal. This means the pad material is completely worn through and you are using the pads back plate to squeeze your rotor or drum. That grinding sound you are hearing is metal on metal. You are going to need new pads and most likely new rotors or drums.
4. Do the brake calipers move freely? Alot of time if the slides on the caliper were not cleaned and lubed correctly you will have a caliper hanging up on one or both sides and will cause unwanted stopping at that wheel. This will cause uneven brake wear. This can also be cause by a bad caliper which would need to be replaced at this point.
If you check those things on a regular basis it can save you a lot of money by catching problems early before more parts are damaged. Sometimes we have to replace rotors that could have otherwise been resurfaced if the brakes hadn't gone metal to metal and ruined them.
Speaking of turning rotors! I've been asked several times. "Well can't my neighbor Bob just replace the pads? Why do the rotors need to be resurfaced?"
The reason you always want to resurface or replace your rotors when replacing pads is so you don't end up with excessive runout/warpage. Warpage will cause a brake pedal pulsation and in serious cases bad steering wheel vibration while braking. Resurfacing the rotors brings them back to a perfectly smooth and straight surface. If you just slap pads on them over time they will get worse and worse until they are no good.
Minimum Thinkness Explained: Everytime we do a brake job we measure the rotors thickness. Each car has a certain limit on how thin the rotors can be. When it's time to resurface them they need to stay above their minimum thickness specs otherwise they will over heat, warp, and in some severe cases even crack and brake. Once the rotors have been worn down past minimum thickness they need to be replaced to avoid brake failure.
Lubrication. Brake calipers have moving parts called slides. I often see brake jobs done incorrectly in the matter that none of the moving parts were lubed while putting new pads on. Every time you replace your brakes all moving service should be cleaned thoroughly and lubed with sil-glide or a comparable brake system lubrication grease. This keeps parts from rusting, pitting and sticking so your brake work properly. I also like to use disc brake quiet on all my pads. It comes in a spray paint style can. Usually red. Coat the entire back of the pads with it to keep your brakes from making that annoying squeal.
The different kinds of pads and their prices: Have you ever had a shop tell you that you have the option of the good pads or the cheap ones? Usually the good ones cost about twice as much and they are made from a ceramic materail. The ceramic pads last about twice to three times as long and I always recommend using ceramics. It will save you money in the long run. Your other option is usually a semi-metallic pad. They work just fine but like I said before they won't last as long and a lot of times are more prone to squeal in cold weather or when they are cold. Never used riveted pads! They may look just as thick as the semi-metallic and ceramics but the rivets that hold them together take up about half of the pad depth. When they wear out they usually cause major damage to rotors and ruin them. It's worth it to spend the extra few bucks and atleast get the semi-metallics.
How can I tell when it's time to replace my brake pads? Most brake pads have a wear indicator built onto them. This will cause a constant squealing sound to come from the worn out pad before they start grinding metal to metal. In my opinion, if you ever hear any sounds coming from your brakes, get them checked out. We do free brake inspections and so do many other shops. It's worth it to have the peace of mind that you're not going to have brake failure and cause an accident. Find a mechanic you trust and always bring you car to them to have the oil changed every 3000 miles so they can get a good look at your vehicle and let you know about any concerns they have.
If you have any questions about brake feel free to give me a call anytime at Save More Automotive. My name is Cory and our number is (509) 482-7283. Thanks for reading!
http://www.savemoreautomotive.com/
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Your Timing Belt & Why It Is Important To Change It.
So here's the situation. You're waiting in the waiting room at your favorite repair shop and your mechanic comes in and let's you know that your car is due for a Timing Belt.
"No big deal. Let's replace it!" You say, before he has the chance to explain to you that it's going to cost a few hundred dollars. Seems like a TON of money for a belt doesn't it? I mean did you just have your A/C belt replaced last month for $70?
Let me start off by explaining what exactly your timing belt does for your car's engine. Your timing belt basically is the connecting component between the lower half of your engine and the upper half of your engine. It does exactly what it's name says. It keeps your engine in time with itself by turning your crankshaft and camshaft in sync. If your car's crankshaft isn't properly timed with your camshaft, your valves will not open at the correct time to create compression and combustion in the proper cylinder that is being supplied with fuel and air.
Now that we know what the timing belt does we can also safely say that without a timing belt, your car's engine will not run. Even worse if your timing belt breaks it can cause terminal damage to your internal engine parts including: bent or broken valves, punctured pistons, broken valve seats, etc.. These type of engines are known in the car world as "interference engines" and are very common, especially in import vehicles. Timing belts DO break. I see it all the time. If your timing belt breaks and causes internal engine damage then your bill may have just went from a couple hundred dollars to a couple thousand dollars. Say you get lucky and your belt hasn't broken, yet. They also stretch. A stretched belt at worst will jump time (teeth on the belt) causing your engine to run out of time with itself. With such tight engine clearance tolerances in today's engines this can also cause internal engine damage. Best case scenario your belt stretches but doesn't jump time. This will cause your valves not to open and close in perfect time with the pistons and will cause a poor running condition and decreased fuel economy.
Now you can see why timing belts are extremely important. Every vehicle equipped with a timing belt has a specific mileage that the manufacturer recommends replacement, usually between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. I recommend never running a timing belt more than 90,000 miles even if the service interval says it will last longer. I would rather see them replaced every 60,000. Rubber gets old and brittle and mileage doesn't always properly reflect age. The reason it costs so much for a timing belt is because it takes several hours to replace. Some vehicles are more difficult than others. On many vehicles the water pump is timing belt driven and should be replaced at the same time. The reason for this is if your water pump fails, it could lock up and break the belt or leak coolant onto the belt causing it to jump time. Also you've already paid for the several hours of labor to change the belt. It will cost you much less to replace the water pump now while the technician has everything out of the way. I usually only charge an extra half hour plu.s the cost of the part to replace the water pump since you have to have the timing belt off to replace the pump. It's the right way to do it and the most cost effective for you to properly maintain your vehicle.
If you live in the Spokane, WA area and need your timing belt replaced or have any other car care needs call Save More Automotive at (509) 482-7283. We are located at 304 E Wellesley Ave in Spokane, WA 99207. You can also visit us online at www.savemoreautomotive.com - Cory Howard (Co-Owner)
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